Things to Do in Porlock and on Exmoor, Somerset: A Wild Duchess Edit

Porlock doesn't advertise itself. It sits at the bottom of one of the steepest hills in England, tucked into a coastal valley on the edge of Exmoor National Park, and it mostly gets on with being exactly what it is — which is quietly, stubbornly one of the most beautiful places in the country.

I know it because my family has been here for years. I ride horses across the moors above the village, walk the coast path when the weather is cooperative (which in Exmoor means: occasionally), and spend more evenings than I'll admit watching the light change over the Bristol Channel from the hill above the harbour at Porlock Weir.

This isn't a tourist guide. It's where I'd send a friend.

The view from Porlock Marsh to the hidden bath house on Ada Lovelace’s estate

Get yourself properly oriented first

Exmoor is not a destination you understand from the car. The landscape reveals itself on foot and on horseback — the heather moorland, the ancient oak woodlands, the sudden drops to the coast, the wild ponies standing in the fog like something out of a dream. Give yourself at least two full days before you try to "see" anything. The first day is for adjusting.

When you leave Porlock heading up onto the moors, you'll face Porlock Hill — one of the steepest road gradients in England. Everyone who's driven it has a story. The toll road is the slightly gentler alternative and worth the small fee. Either way, nothing quite prepares you for it the first time, but you’ll often be greeted with wild ponies and the most beautiful view of the bay at the top. 

Where to walk

The coastal path from Porlock Weir to Lynmouth is as good as walking in England gets. It's not flat and it's not short — allow a full day if you want to do it properly — but the path runs along the edge of Exmoor where the moor meets the sea, through ancient sessile oak woodland that feels genuinely ancient. There are no coffee shops mid-route. Bring what you need.

Shorter option: walk from Porlock village out to Porlock Weir along the marsh path. The marsh looks the way it does because of a storm in 1996 that breached the shingle ridge and flooded the land behind it. The decision was made not to repair the breach and let the sea reclaim it. What's left is a saltmarsh with the ghostly stumps of a submerged forest visible at low tide — an accidental ecosystem that turned out to be more interesting than anything a repair would have produced. The birdlife and the silence are worth an hour of anyone's time. The distinct petrified marshland forest can be seen in the recent movie The Salt Path, starring Gillian Anderson, which was filmed throughout the area. 

For moorland walking, Dunkery Beacon is the highest point on Exmoor and straightforward to reach on foot from various trailheads. The views on a clear day extend to Wales.

Porlock Marsh and it’s petrified forest after the sea flooded the marsh in 1996

Where to eat and drink

The Top Ship Inn in the centre of Porlock is the one to know — one of the oldest inns in the country, proper pub food, and the kind of welcome that makes you want to stay longer than you planned.

If you have a car and time, drive to Dulverton — about half an hour from Porlock through lanes so narrow they'll make any American drivers wonder if this is an actual road. It's worth it. Woods Restaurant in Dulverton is excellent, and the village itself has one of my favourite shops in the area, Seven Fables, plus antique shops that reward proper browsing. 

Two shops in Porlock that I send everyone to:

Handmade Exmoor is exactly what it sounds like. The owner has her own flock of sheep, shears them, and turns the wool into garments and interiors on a loom in the shop. You can watch her work. Everything is made from the wool of animals you can see. She also does workshops if you want to learn. 

Wood and Clay is a pottery studio in the village — beautiful work, online shop, and worth visiting in person if you're passing through. 

The upcoming Wild Duchess Somerset field trip will include amazing workshops from these amazing designers. 

One other thing you cannot sleep on if you’ve been walking miles around Exmoor, is our local favourite, Secret Saunas - the mobile woodfired sauna that pitches up in the most stunning locations. You can book a private Sauna in various locations, overlooking the sea or fields. Tickets are also available for general admission.

Riding on Exmoor

Exmoor has some of the best bridleway riding in England. If you ride and you haven't been on the moors on horseback, it's worth organising specifically. Our friends atBrendon Manor Riding Stables know these moors and will take you into countryside you'd never find on your own. The experience of riding across open moorland with curious wild ponies coming to say hello is one I'd recommend to anyone.

What to look for on the moors

The Exmoor ponies are pretty tame for wild horses due to locals taking care of them in extreme weather and for vet checks — a native breed that has lived on the moor since before recorded history. They're smaller than you'd expect and not always easy to spot, but you'll usually find them on the higher ground. Don't approach them or feed them. Just watch.

Red deer are another reason to be on the moor at dawn or dusk. Exmoor has one of England's largest wild red deer herds — you may not spot them easily, but they're there. The rutting season in October is worth being out early for. A note: ticks are present on the moors year-round, more so in long grass and bracken. Check yourself and your dogs after any walk.

When to go

Honestly, I love all the seasons. The spring is so alive. Summer is beautiful, but busy. Autumn is stunning. Winter is harsh but there’s something so feral and magical about it. I would avoid peak summer school holidays if you can help it. The lanes are narrow, the car parks get full - but the upside is everything is open.

Late spring — May and June — is the moors at their most alive: the gorse in bloom, the paths clear, the accommodation available. October for the deer rut and the autumn colour. Winter for the solitude and the storms coming off the channel, which are formidable and beautiful if you're dressed for them.

For more from Exmoor

Wild Duchess is taking a small group of women to Somerset in 2026 — field trips, walking, and the kind of conversations that happen when you're somewhere extraordinary with the right people. Join the waitlist here.

🏡 Wild Duchess Somerset is based in Porlock — a restored 19th-century watermill cottage available for short stays. If you want to use it as a base to explore everything above, you can find out more and enquire here.

📍I've also put together a Google Maps guide of my favourite spots across Porlock and the surrounding area — walks, shops, pubs, and places worth knowing.

🌿 I also write about Exmoor, the moors, and life between Los Angeles and Somerset in Moors & Mountains on Substack.